Cold Noodles
@ Yamo

The Dish:

A delightful nest of egg noodles, cucumber, carrot, onion, cabbage, and chicken (or tofu, which is equally delicious), Yamo Cold Noodles remind me of a punchier version of Vietnam's bun. Similar concept—combining fresh, texturally diverse ingredients with noodles and a memorable sauce—but Chinese-Burmese flavors are employed. These noodles hook you with their sweet start and spicy finish and cilantro, green onion, and garlic grace notes; you may get in a rut you won't mind being stuck in.

Key Ingredients: Egg noodles, green onion, red onion, cabbage, carrot, cucumber, chicken (or tofu), cilantro, dried garlic, "house special flavor"

The Place:

A tiny galley of a joint, what Yamo lacks in square footage it makes up for in modest, hardworking charm. There's no shortage of things to look at as you wait for your noodles: piles of coconut in the cooler; plastic bins stuffed with chopped mushrooms or teeny, dried shrimp; the three, industrious Burmese women making tasty happen. Approaching institution status in the Mission, Yamo frequently has long queues out the door; come at off times to grab one of the 10 stools.

On the Side:

• Try the fresh coconut, which one of the nice Burmese ladies will hack open for you with a machete. I'm not kidding.
• Crispy, potato-filled samusas are a great way to kick off your meal.

Recommended By:

While Jill spent her childhood eschewing foods that weren't Campbell's Chicken Noodle Soup or peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, she grew up to be one hungry girl with an enthusiastic palate. These days you can find her in the Mission, enjoying a good laugh.

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